See Ya!

The end of the trip has come. Truly feels like I’ve been away for a long time. While there have been a TON of adventures and experiences on this trip, the best has been meeting my nephew, Jackson Allen.

He is the most adorable baby – so sweet and chill… a tiny peanut of cuteness and love. I enjoyed every second spent with him, watching my mom work her baby magic, smiling at what fantastic parents my sister and Brad are, and taking pictures of all his funny faces.

I expect daily photos until I see him next!

I came to Australia thinking this would be a once-in-a-lifetime trip, but I am overwhelmingly smitten with this country. I will definitely be back to explore more.

Goodbye Queensland

Surfing Level 1

Today I learned (1) how to surf and (2) that I’m not a natural at it. That shit is hard! My instructor TBone :) was really thorough and clear on how to paddle, catch a wave, pop up, wipeout…on shore. I even practiced on the sand – really good at that part. But taking it to the ocean is a totally different story. It’s all about balance; need to pick up some of that when I get back to the States.

Despite all the rinsing and wipeouts, it was so much fun. And, no, no photos of me biting it.

Great Barrier Reef

A mild, overcast day means pretty perfect conditions for a boat cruise cum snorkel venture out on the Great Barrier Reef.

Boat Trip to Lady Musgrave Island

Lady Musgrave Island, a 2-hour rocky boat ride from the Town of 1770, was created entirely of dead coral. It was an easy 40-minute walk around the whole thing, stopping to check out all the Black Noddy nests in the Pisonia forest and a few photos at the most picturesque spots.

Lady Musgrave IslandCoral Beach at Lady Musgrave IslandPisonia Forest at Lady Musgrave IslandGigantic Mollusk Shell on Lady Musgrave Island

Snorkeling the Great Barrier Reef is an unbelievable experience. I’ve never seen so many different varieties of coral, with so many different colors. We learned that coral in the cooler south is of a harder variety so not much swaying with the waves but still quite serene. My favorite: a giant mollusk with huge mouth. Its wavy ‘lips’ – which opened and closed in pace with my breathing it seemed – were black, pink, green, blue, purple… Surrounded by all the yellow brain coral and blue stag antler coral, it was a scene I’ll never forget.

This Vaca Needs a Vaca

Early start for a mini vaca down to the beach in Agnes Water, Queensland, with the entire fam. Though it’s only a 90-minute drive, the ‘highway’ came to a complete halt with a semi laying across the road for a few hours. Why not play a little paddleball while ya wait?

Bush fired forests then lush hillsides pretty much made up the scenic drive until a lunch stop right before arrival at this AMAZING condo: super modern furnishings, a view of the Coral Sea and plenty of time to relax.

Queensland Bush FiresDriving Queensland

The last thing left to do for the day: a walk on the beach followed by dinner at a local outdoor cafe with exceptionally flavorful fish and local burnt caramel ice cream. It’s going to be so so hard to come back to winter in the States.

Agnes Water Beach

Jackson’s First Beach Trip
Jackson’s First Beach Trip

Tourist Explorist

The hotel just happens to be mere blocks from Kings Wharf ferry station. Awesome way to get to the Opera House tour. Quick trip from harbor, to Harbor Bridge, to harbor.

Kings Wharf Ferry Trip

Sydney Opera House. Kind of wish I got the longer Backstage Tour but since we went on Sunday though our tickets were for Saturday (crap!), were lucky to get a deal on the regular tour.

Just. Friggin. Amazing. The history of the place, the amazing shape it’s in, the design and details of the design, the kinds of shows that take place and a truly hysterical tour guide made it so perfect. There is one music hall with fuchsia chair cushions, rounded seat backs, a 10,000 pipe organ – unreal.

Learned so much about the place. For instance:

- It’s a rental space; the Opera House itself does not plan it’s own shows that last for years. I could rent out a hall for $2,000 for a party; one couple apparently booked one for their divorce party.

- Rather than the original estimates of $7M/3 years, it took $100+M/14 years to build but was paid off in 18 months by the creation of an Opera House Lottery. Aussies LOVE to gamble.

- The design was part of an architectural competition and originally the plans were discarded until Eero Saarinen came to in late, looked through all trashed entries and picked the one.

- There is a huge range of shows that come through – from Opera and ballet, of course, to the Foo Fighters, illusionists and circuses.

The rest of the afternoon included a walk up and on the Harbor Bridge, picnic and street markets in The Rocks neighborhood, quick look through the surprisingly modern Customs House and another meet-up with Elizabeth to see the Recorders exhibit at the Museum of Contemporary Art. The exhibit was full of interactive plays on art + technology.

View of Sydney from the Harbor BridgeMuseum of Contemporary Art Tape Measures ExhibitMuseum of Contemporary Art Shadow ExhibitLiz and Elizabeth

Walked through the massive Royal Botanical Gardens which has a great Herb Garden (I want), roses in full bloom and these ficus trees that make you wonder what the hell those generic office ‘ficus’ are back in the States – these guys are just massive.Royal Botanic Gardens FicusRoyal Botanic GardensRoyal Botanic Gardens Herbarium

Long walk up Crown Street, through East Sydney, Woolloomooloo and Surrey Hills and on to Bill’s for a wagyu burger topped with beet and zucchini pickles. I will now be putting (my own canned) beets on all sandwiches – num num.

Bills for Dinner in Surrey Hills

Saturday in Sydney

A rainy morning makes a perfect museum morning. The Powerhouse Museum is an interesting mix of science and design – also happened to have a Harry Potter exhibit that (1) was sold out the entire day and (2) made it exceedingly child-heavy throughout the building. I survived.

The exhibit of the moment was Spirit of Jang-In, treasures of Korean metal craft. Though photography wasn’t allowed, I managed to sneak a few shots – the intricacy and craftsmanship of the work was truly astounding. Jang-In translates as Artisan, Craftsman or Master; I like it.

The museum also had permanent exhibits on space, chemistry and steam engines – so, yeah, an interesting mix.

Shuttles and Space at the PowerhouseLight and Color at the PowerhouseLace at the PowerhouseTiny Cameras at the PowerhouseFlying Car at the PowerhouseStraussberg Clock at the PowerhouseCalligraphy at the Powerhouse MuseumSteam Engines at the Powerhouse Museum

 

FINALLY get to see my lovely friend Elizabeth and her Aussie hubby Garrath! Went for some yum cha (dim sum) at Marigold, a giant red room full of pushy cart ladies, pork dumplings and steamed buns – yes.

Yum Cha at Marigold

 

More Aussie animals in store at Wildlife World. How this place as 20x more koalas than the Melbourne Zoo, I don’t know. But they were so cute – and babies to boot; aw!

Rex the CrocKoala FamilyKoala Num Nums

More walking, if you can believe it, until spontaneously fell upon the symphony performing outdoors in The Domain park as part of Sydney Festival. Wish I had a picnic; the champagne and charcuterie around me is inspiring. Note to self: Picnics every Sunday this summer back at home.

 Sydeny Festival

Sydney

A pre-dawn flight to Sydney – too early, too tired, how are people on the shuttle actually smiling and holding conversations?

A few lovely things about Qantas domestic in Melbourne. One: you can not only check yourself in via kiosk but also drop off any checked luggage…all DIY, no people, just a sticker and a conveyor belt with scanner. Two: no need to de-shoe in security or even have a ticket – say goodbye right at the gate. Three: a one hour flight somehow also includes breakfast and coffee.

Sydney is pretty different from Melbourne – much more of a City city. Like DC with palm trees. Whereas Melbourne reminded me of Chicago in the summer: funky distinct neighborhoods, fit people being all active, BYOB, a real separation of downtown and fun life. Love them both but in different ways.

Hotel is right on Darling Harbor, a former industrial area turned kinda touristy with a busy nightlife. Spent the afternoon exploring and window-shopping from south to north: Queen Victoria Building, Strand Arcade, Hyde Park, Parliament, Opera House, Circular Quay and back down George Street to Darling Harbor and Thai food for dinner.

There was a great moment today when I stepped down toward the riverfront, turned the corner and saw the Harbor Bridge. Then the Opera House. Two wow moments of I’m actually here! Followed by a glass of pink moscato at the Opera Bar.

Opera Bar with Pink Moscato
Opera Bar with Pink Moscato

Final Melbourne Sites

Finally figured out the public transport system with the help of a super friendly mustachioed man at the Flagstaff Station. To this point, there’s been lots of walking but the zoo is quite a ways north.

The zoo! Despite the throngs of kids, loopy parents and aggressive pram steering, the place is really well organized with cool signage and a ton to see. Favorite, most anticipated part: Bush wildlife – koala, kangaroo, emu, wombat (an adorbs family w baby in her pouch!). Most popular exhibit for most of the crowd: tigers. Biggest surprise: gigantic silverback gorilla. Wow those are massive furry forearms.

Four hours at the zoo? Must be time for shopping. It just so happens this trip coincides with the semi-annual sales here. Dropped into David Jones dept store; wasn’t much in the mood for clothes but the Food Hall was calling me – as usual. Finally had the famous Australian dessert: Lamington, a soft cake enrobed in chocolate and coconut.

David Jones Food HallLamington

Back to my new favorite mode of public transport and on the tram south to St. Kilda, a beach town that’s a sort of cross between South Beach, Barcelona and Chicago + a slew of kite surfers. 48 by my count. No clue how they didn’t tangle up but it was just fun to watch them do their thing by the Pier.

Kite Boarding at St. Kilda

Lovely small plates dinner of carrot-cumin salad, cauliflower-black quinoa, patatas bravas and soppressa pizza at the Stokehouse, right on the bay, then a quick walk around the Esplanade to check out Acland Street’s cake shops and Luna Park amusement park before tramming it back to the hotel to pack, drink a bottle of Australian Moscato and skype with Hudson.

Luna ParkStokehouse Dinner

Australian Open 2012

A dream realized: marking my third notch in the Grand Slam belt. Could not have been a more perfect day: high 70s, nice breeze, free tram right to the gates.

The grounds, like the city itself actually, are immaculate. Lots of recycling, perfect grass and greenery, awesome signage and architecture. Similar to the US Open in the energy of the crowds; similar to Wimbledon in the accessibility of anyone to come. But it’s definitely its own when it comes to the availability of decent schwag, the number of coffee vendors outnumbering anything else and how much of a burn you can get in 8 hours here with multiple layers of SPF.

Quick recap of who was spotted: Del Potro, Schiavone and Azirenka on practice courts, Marty Fish (lost!), #1 seed Caroline Wozniacki, Jelena Jankovic, and a bunch of other random people in good form. Incredibly bummed the Federer match on our court was cancelled since he got to walk over but stayed in there for a few others anywhere.

A full day included a walk along Southbank, the neighborhood across the Yarra River from the Central Biz District. Another fun spot full of parks, gardens, boat sheds and tons of runners/cyclists. Hit restaurant row for a great steak salad and gelato.

As we crossed back over the river, more great sites: a bar nestled along a pylon of the bridge – talk about finding your own spot in the world. And it was packed. Found more great sculptures and a gym in an old train depot under the metro line. This thing is high tech meets masochistic. One tunnel is just endlessly lined with speed and heavy bags; another has the nicest spin bikes I’ve seen – set up on a dirt floor.

Bad ass.