Surfing Level 1

Today I learned (1) how to surf and (2) that I’m not a natural at it. That shit is hard! My instructor TBone was really thorough and clear on how to paddle, catch a wave, pop up, wipeout…on shore. I even practiced on the sand – really good at that part. But taking it to the ocean is a totally different story. It’s all about balance; need to pick up some of that when I get back to the States.

Despite all the rinsing and wipeouts, it was so much fun. And, no, no photos of me biting it.